The last ten days have been a whirlwind of amazing gifts of enjoyment in Davao. The city’s tourism motto is “Life is Here,” an apt description for what I’ve experienced over the last week. It began with the Kadayawan Festival Opening Ceremonies last Friday (August 9). We saw a significantly substantial level of security personnel, most of whom carried AK-47s, to “protect the peace” and provide security against bombing and the like. That consideration – that AK-47s and a vigilante police force provide security – is worth reflection on a further post. The evening, however, was a delightful celebration of cultures. Opening prayers led by IP, Christian, and Muslim representatives, singing of the Philippine and Davao national/local anthems, and introduction of the ten different Davao tribes were part of the evening. Lots of dancing by the different tribes and the end of the opening ceremonies – when the Mayor officially announced that Kadayawan would go forward despite the recent levels of insecurity in Mindanao, included a distribution of fruits from a giant fruit basket. I enjoyed a pomelo and banana. Afterwards, Ketty and I enjoyed a small tour of downtown Davao with our friend Gracie, showing us old Spanish houses and treating us to my favorite – halo-halo.
The following day, Ketty and I adventured off to Eden Nature Park. Desperate for nature, we both commented how the jeepney drive to the edge of Davao and the tricycle ride up the steep hill/mountain to Eden was worth the trip in itself. The nature was breathtakingly beautiful and the fresh air was delightfully welcome. We enjoyed a tour of the park, a 90% human-made reclaimed-nature park, including fruit groves of jackfruit and mangosteen, gardens (vegetable and flower), butterflies, and fun activities like fishing (the fastest and easiest fishing experience of my life) and my first chance to ride a bicycle since I arrived – this time hundreds of feet in the air. On our way back, we discovered that the “mickey mouse plant” is not a fruit but rather inedible, and that the marang fruit is one of the best I’ve tried so far.
On Sunday, I participated in a 10K “fun run” sponsored by shops at the local mall to support Habitat for Humanity. It was much more laid back than other runs I’ve done, proven in part by my early finish of #8 female despite being a relatively slow runner. It was another cultural experience to see this public event open with a public prayer, and to participate in the celebrations and giveaways around the run. I was grateful to enjoy the race with several work colleagues.
For the next three days, we enjoyed lots of celebrations (which means free food) at work. We said goodbye to the head of office as he returned to the US, celebrated those with August birthdays, and enjoyed spillover food from some in-office meetings. I discovered that these celebrations are not unique to CRS, but are a Filipino tradition – celebrating arrivals and departures, birthdays, special events, and more. It doesn’t take much for an excuse for a party!
Tuesday evening Ketty and I enjoyed a night in Davao with some new friends, Gracie and Chris. We enjoyed eating at Davao’s oldest Chinese restaurant, and participating in native traditions like Videoke and had our first experience of eating Durian. It’s not so bad!!
On Thursday we ventured to the other side of Davao to attend a classical music concert at a coffee shop supporting the Tuburan Institute, a steiner/waldorf inspired school. We enjoyed violin, classical guitar, and piano renditions of some well-known pieces. http://school.tuburaninstituteinc.com/ While there, I saw a very rare sight – a white-skinned woman, and decided to be bold and ask where she was from. Turns out I knew her!
On Friday, we ventured to enjoy the Kadayawan River Festival on the Davao River. Unfortunately we didn’t get clear information and so missed the parade of boats along the river, but enjoyed some tribal dancing at the celebration site. People particularly enjoyed it when Ketty and I joined in dancing with them!
After the festival ended, we explored the local artisan store center with a variety of traditional and locally-made items. I then joined my friend Gracie as we ate Chinese food and enjoyed a Kadayawan Bazaar before finishing the evening with a “welcome dinner” for the couchsurfer[1] friends who came for the festival from Manila and elsewhere. Here I met another white woman, a German young lady working for an NGO in Davao. Turns out, we spotted each other at Eden the previous weekend! White skinned females stand out here…
On Saturday, Ketty and I secured prime seats for the much-anticipated Indak-Indak sa Kadalanan (street dancing competition). We turned in our purses since no bags were allowed of any variety for security purposes and proceeded to watch four hours of fabulous dancing performed by tribes and groups all over the region. The photos will describe this best, even though we were restricted in getting better photos.
After the street dancing, we enjoyed some food and went to one of the larger, nicer malls which was hosting the Davao Gourmet Food Collective and also an All-You-Can-Eat Durian festival. My friends were too full for the Durian, so I just took photos of the different varieties, and had one taste of a variety that for now is only found on Palawan island, which I enjoyed a lot. In the evening, we enjoyed fantastic (and free!) performances by Mindanaoan folk musicians at the local “night life” center nearby home.
Then on Sunday, we joined our couchsurfing friends to go island hopping. Around 20 of us chartered a boat which took us to beautiful pristine beaches near Davao and allowed us to explore coral reefs and tropical fish – my first encounter seeing either of these “live.” A wonderfully relaxing day full of natural beauty and fun.
I topped off the Kadayawan week with a stop in the city center for inexpensive massages (which is there all the time) while watching the nightlife of thousands of people enjoying the festival and the final event – a free “Mayor’s Concert”.
Davao – Life is Here.
[1] Couchsurfing is a community of people who offer their homes for travelers and passers-by. Couchsurfers tend to be open people, welcoming and curious of different cultures and who believe in the gift of hospitality. Couchsurfers offer their couches, floors, or extra beds to people passing through for no cost, connected to “surfers” and “hosts” through an online portal. Sometimes couchsurfers cannot host but can show people the city or local culture, and sometimes people join together for the community even if they can’t host. This is the primary non-work group that I have befriended so find these friendships my extrovert lifeline! I’ve been a member of couchsurfing since 2007 though often inactive, but am grateful to recall this connection which has led me to meet some wonderful people.