I’ve never lived in a “war zone.” There are plenty of accurate comparisons of life in the US, especially in urban and poverty-ridden areas, as life in war, but I haven’t spent a lot of time in those places and it’s still not the same as organized forces fighting against a government.
So what does it look like? From countless images of wars, I expect to see military personnel in combat gear with rifles and the rest, marching along the streets, looking menacing to passers-by. Even the occasional bodies on the street. I expect to either see chaos or emptiness. I expect to “see” the war and violence.
On my way to another town in Mindanao about 4 hours away, we passed through an area which was notorious for violence and was an epicenter of conflict during the war(s). As we drove through, it looked like any other provincial town in the Philippines, with people and shops, and “normal life” happening. What did I expect to see? Bullet-attacked walls? Bomb-destructed homes and buildings? (Both of which I saw when visiting Serbia and the former Yugoslavia) People marching with weapons? (Of course, in Davao City, bank and building guards carry guns, sometimes even AK-47s, so it’s not as if “normal life” here is without weapons.) I traveled through the southern areas of Mindanao, through areas where the NPA (communist army) is active, though I remained in the coastal areas and avoided the “inner” part of the provinces. If you didn’t know that NPA was active in the area, I’m not sure if there are many signs that would suggest it’s an occasional location for violence. On the contrary, the beautiful nature conjured up images of “Paradise” – except it wasn’t over-glamorized postcards or magazine covers, but reality.
Living in Davao, we’re a good 8 hours (I’m guessing) drive from the attack/siege/rebellion/war/violence that has been occurring in Zamboanga City and area. The latest count puts it at around 30,000 displaced people, references at times to 80-200 hostages, 30 human shields…it’s hard to count for sure. It began Sunday night/Monday morning and continued through Friday. Each day, I expected to hear that things had settled. They hadn’t. On Tuesday, CRS staff still took their normal routes to the field. By Wednesday, several had returned because of bans by the organization to travel on certain roads, etc. By Thursday, I was thinking, surely this will end soon. On Friday, renewed violence broke out (beyond the previous recorded numbers), and emergency notices from the US State Department were warning about specific targeting against foreigners (I’m unsure if this is directly related to Zamboanga or not). I began to wonder, when do you shift your thinking from thinking “this is horrible, but it will end soon” to preparing oneself for a long-term onslaught of violence?
Thankfully, Saturday morning, a ceasefire was declared. What the ceasefire means, and what the future holds is far from certain. Nevertheless, I breathed a sigh of relief, hoping that this could mean the thousands of displaced people could slowly return, and that those caught – literally – in the cross-fire may be released from their terror.
And this is all in the context of a country that is in the middle (and even towards the end) of peace negotiations. The Philippines, and Mindanao specifically, has been enjoying a time of relative peace since the negotiations have been happening between the MILF and the government. But in that time, there’s been plenty of occurrences of bombs, gun fights, kidnappings, targeted anti-military attacks, and more. There are at least 5 “main” organized fighting groups (with many more factions and smaller criminal groups), some of which have peace agreements, but several do not.
People live through wars. And that doesn’t just mean sheltering in a home that luckily avoids the gunshots or bombs. It does mean that, sometimes. But it also means finding food and groceries, going to school (or not), and often still working. When I visited Colombia, “war” was ongoing, though you could barely feel it in the capital as the activity happened in more rural areas. People drove, shopped, ate, danced, and went about their lives as you would expect they would in a time of peace. Wars don’t happen in a neatly contained time and place. They’re spread out, indiscernible from beginning to end, meld themselves into the fabric of daily life, perpetrated by brothers and sisters, friends, enemies, big G governments, and foreign infiltrations of hatred, greed, and resources. They’re explained and reported by rumors, phone calls (and texts), and official media. They happen around the corner, in your friend’s home town, and on the other side of the country. It happens to “them,” but it also happens to “us.”
What does war look like?
… What does peace look like?
p.s. I’m aware I write here of “war,” despite the fact that no one in Mindanao has referred to the latest violence in Zamboanga as “war.” It’s a fire-fight, a clash, an eruption of the heat that boils so closely beneath the surface in Mindanao. While the violence is serious, I’m playing a bit with the word “war” because of its exaggeration, ubiquitous use, and simplified definitions that pervade countries like the US where our wars are fought on others’ soils. If you haven’t lived through war, chances are, the Picture of War is simplified and contained, very specific and repeated – no matter the context.
p.p.s. Not to be simplistic, but war also looks like Syria.